A local customer approached us with some material requests and ideas and we worked together to create these beautiful custom plugs. The outer material is ivoryite, a snow white stone that is slightly harder than ivory, and for the record, a great vegan alternative to bone and antler (both light colored materials). The ivoryite is carved in a traditional blocky flower style reminiscent of Aztec design, and into it we have inlaid a very flashy ‘pancake’ cabochon of deep blue labradorite, affixed with an impressive eight prong setting from fine silver.
The first step was to begin grinding the ivoryite itself into the plug shape with a Mayan flare and to start etching out the petals. In the below photo, one piece has already been rough carved and had the beginning of the seat for the inlay cut, while the other has been just started. The drilling and the cutting of the seat is very time consuming and somewhat difficult, as all is done by hand and the seat and tunnel must be near perfectly square. Stones will also break most frequently at this stage.
This next shot shows both plugs roughed out with the seats started, and the beginnings of the labradorite that will become the cabochons. Shown is the start of one inlay and the rough block of labradorite which will be fashioned into the second inlay. This really gives you a feel for how exquisite the flash in these pieces is – this is still very heavy grit with no polish.
Below we are test fitting the height of the cabochon in the seat, and making sure there will be room for the base of the setting and the prongs which will hold the labradorite firmly against the ivoryite.
Next, we test fit both pieces and ensure that height and fitment will work before beginning the setting itself. At this point, the setting is also being fabricated. After the setting is completed the ivoryite will be further refined to ensure a tight, even fit.
Sidney, Onetribe’s go-to for metalwork, fabricating the top of the prong setting.
The pieces were made hollow because it is a more unique, more complicated process to hardware set something that is translucent, and because some labradorite, when cut thin, is indeed translucent and in sunlight will show interesting pink/purple tones hidden in the gray. These were taken in artificial light, so that unfortunately doesn’t show, but you can tell they are indeed translucent.
The finished work, and our very happy local customer wearing his unique jewelry for the first time.
Big thanks to Stephen, our customer in this shot, for giving us the opportunity to engineer something beautiful and new, and Sidney, our metalsmith, for helping to make the magic happen!
